Taking great photographs of shelter dogs

It seems taking great photographs of dogs is harder than taking great photographs of people! The key is to think like a dog. Many of the tips here will help with taking pictures of the family pet, but when you’re working with shelter dogs there are even more challenges than usual. Quite often shelter dogs are neglected and untrained. Couple that with the fact that shelter life often means limited time running about outside being a dog and it’s no wonder that many of the pictures of shelter dogs involve out of focus cages in the foreground. Many of the photographs of shelter animals are not particularly helpful in showing potential future families the best of what future family member may possess. I have had many compliments of how myr pictures really bring out the best in an animal. Here are my top 5 tips for taking great photos of shelter animals, guaranteed to increase your shelter’s adoption rate to great forever homes!


Top 5 tips for taking great photographs of shelter dogs

1. Think like an “animal” person
Have you even seen a picture of a dog and just fell in love? There are certain qualities of a potential pet that pull on us as humans. Their eyes draw us in on an emotional level, so make sure their eyes are crisp and clear. If you have a great photo except for their eyes, touch them up with your favorite graphics design program to make them look realistic and not a casualty of a “bad flash”.

Additionally pet owners want to know their future “best friend” is alert and attentive; not sad, scared or droopy. Most of what attracts us to an animal in a portrait is their facial features, so focus on that, and crop out the rest if needed!

2. Think like a dog
So how do you get a picture of them looking alert and attentive? It’s critical to make sure the handler isn’t projecting a highly animated energy. In fact it’s best if the handler gives the dog very little attention so that the animal can focus his or her senses elsewhere. (see tips for working alone if one isn’t available) It’s also important for you as the photographer to project the same energy, as you don’t want the dog’s attention focused on you specifically, rather their environment.

Now that we have the humans ready, let’s think like a dog! First, recognize that a dog’s primary sense is their nose (see tip 3). Secondly recognize that the most expressive part of a dog’s face is it’s ears. Neither of which are particularly occupied on a instinctive level within the confines of the shelter itself.  So…. Go outside!

Now, develop a repertoire of dog friendly noises; whistles, clicks, an old squeaky toy. Use them but be ready for their instinctual nature to kick in as they listen to the sounds of nature all around them. Capture alert attentive ears and you’ve virtually guaranteed a great shot!


3. Get down on their level

Remember, a dog’s primary sense is smell, which means their first priority is likely going to be sniffing along the ground. This means that’s where you need to be to catch all the action. If a sound captures the animal’s attention he’ll likely lift his head a moment to check it out, and go back to sniffing the ground. You need to be ready when the opportunity arises.

I usually station myself lying on the ground as the handler approaches with the dog and ask them to come within camera range, but not quite close enough for the dog to reach me. Ask the handler to try and just stay put and see if the dog has a favorable reaction to the environment. Occasionally I find it best to have the handler take the dog away from me and slowly walk the animal in my direction.

4. Get the right light and the right background
This has more to do with photography technique rather than animal technique. This is where knowing the animal and finding the right spot can make all the difference.

The first consideration is to make sure the sun is somewhere behind you so that it can add light to the dog’s facial features. However as you shoot be aware of the shadows you and the handler are casting. A shadow in the wrong spot can completely ruin a shot and there’s nothing worse that finally getting a dog to have the right look, only to have your own shadow streaking across his face!

Be aware of what’s behind the dog. It’s best to aim for some sort of contrast. In other words, a dog with a dark coat may not “pop” if she is up against the dark trunk of a tree or a dark forest. Conversely, a light colored animal might get lost if there are only bright clouds or a white building behind her. It’s best to set your cameras/aperture so that anything in the background appears blurry.

5. Be patient!
Once in a while the perfect photograph of a dog happens within seconds of getting him outside. More often it requires a bit of time to allow the dog to release a bit of energy and begin to tap into the natural instincts that take over once they get outside. It’s best to follow the dog; not literally follow him or her around, but follow the animal with you camera lens as you try to get their natural instincts to perk up. Additionally it may mean taking a short break with the camera as the dog’s attention is focused the other direction or pulls the handler right over to you to investigate.

Work with then natural instincts of the dog. A beagle or bloodhound for instance is all nose. Have a good smelling treat to get their attention and see if you can toss it in the direction you want them to look. Many mixed breed with floppy ears look sad and dejected, until a sudden high pitch squeak freezes them and gets those ears perked right up and tuned in. A new shelter dog may be so frightened that the only way she looks attentive is in the security of a handler’s arms. Work with the dog to help him or her show their best features for their potential new family!


How to Take Great Pet Pictures with Any Camera

Pet Photography 101: Tips for taking better photos of your dog or cat


Additional tips

Tips for working alone
Sometimes it is simply not possible to have a handler with you as you try to get just the right shot to showcase a great adoptable animal. This presents additional challenges.

I have used a very stout tie-out so once I transfer the animal from the leash, the dog can explore a bit and learn his limitations. It is critical (particular with big dogs) to stay just outside of range of the animal once you begin photographing! I once had a playful Saint Bernard tangle my leg in the cable and jump on top of me to play, nearly causing injuries that required a hospital visit.

I have found that it is best to have a selection of toys available. Many dogs once they realize there is a bit more freedom than the leash, will actively play fetch, allowing you to capture their attention with a toy.


Cats

I prefer to have a handler step just outside the front door of the shelter. Cats tend to immediately respond instinctually the moment they are outside. Be aware that cats can and will recognize freedom and make a run for it! Sometimes it’s best get a picture in the cage. I always open the door and do my best to get a natural response.

Dogs and cold weather

It amazes me when people feel badly for a stout dog, such as Husky or Malamute, who is “stuck” outside in the cold. Particularly if the dog spends most of it’s time outside anyway. To anthropomorphize our pets doesn’t help them or us. To apply only human emotions and thoughts towards our interactions with our animals deeply inhibits our understanding of the animal and our ability to help it reach it’s potential. If you’ve ever seen Caesar Millan’s Dog Whisperer, than you’ve undoubtedly seen an owner who treats their dog like a human child, and therefore can’t control it, because the dog actually wants to be treated like a dog. The same principles can apply to dogs and cold weather.

However, there must be balance. Dogs can get frostbite or even die from exposure to cold weather. Canines such as foxes and wolves understand fully how to survive in such harsh conditions without our help. They build dens to get out of the weather, they eat different types of prey, they develop thicker coats, and instinctively know how and when to adapt in order to survive. Our domesticated dogs however have lost much of that knowledge and rely on us to fill in the gaps.  Here is a great common sense "to do" list, from a vet, regarding how we as humans can help our dogs survive and thrive during cold weather:
The cold weather "to do" list for humans regarding their dog

All dogs are different
All dogs are different, much like people, and some naturally have a higher tolerance for colder weather than others. Here are several factors which affect a dog’s ability to withstand colder temperatures.

• The Breed: Large northern breeds such as Alaskan Malamutes or Siberian Huskies, have physiological differences that allow them to withstand cold much better than say, a Chihuahua. 
  
  
• Their coat: A well groomed coat is an amazing insulator. Mats reduce it’s effectiveness and the longer and thicker the coat, the better the insulation.  Look how this dogs retains heat versus the :  Human face or a terrier or a puppy
  
• Their age: A puppy has not developed enough muscle and fatty layers, nor have they developed their full coat. Elderly dogs lack the energy reserves to cope with the cold. Healthy adult dogs however can cope with cold much better.
  
  
• The amount of time they spend outside, particularly in the fall: One of the primary reasons wolves and foxes can survive the winter is that the natural rhythms of the seasons have instructed their bodies to put on extra fatty layers and build up a thicker coat in preparation for the cold. Domesticated dogs that spend most of their time indoors did not have the opportunity to receive these instructions from mother nature.
  
  
• Their food: Again wolves and foxes prepare their energy reserves for the oncoming winter by eating more. Be cautions of overfeeding if your dog is not getting plenty of daily exercise, but by all means give them a bit more food during the colder months. Additionally maintain a nutritious and well-balanced diet for your dog, and foods with a bit more fat content are certainly acceptable.
  
  

Check this out!

In addition, they do have some very interesting distinct physical differences than us humans, in order to be able to walk about in the ice and snow more easily.

Read my post about dogs physical difference